Chefchaouen: The Blue City of the Rif that Enchants the World

Nestled in the Rif mountains, Chefchaouen is one of the most photographed cities in the world. Its enchanting blue alleyways, fountains and mountain-side houses create a unique tableau that no photograph can fully capture.

History and origins of the blue city

Chefchaouen was founded in 1471 by Ali ibn Rashid al-Alami, a sharif of Arab origin, to serve as a military base against the Portuguese who occupied Ceuta and other ports on the Atlantic coast. The city quickly welcomed thousands of Moorish and Jewish refugees expelled from Spain during the Reconquista, giving it a unique multicultural identity.

For centuries, Chefchaouen was a closed city to non-Muslims. Only three Europeans entered it before the 20th century, including Charles de Foucauld in 1883 disguised as a rabbi and journalist Walter Harris in 1889. It was only in 1920, during the Spanish occupation of the Northern Protectorate, that the city was opened to the outside world.

The mystery of the blue: why are the walls blue?

The origin of Chefchaouen's blue colour is the subject of several theories. The most widespread attributes this tradition to the Sephardic Jewish community that settled there in the 15th century: in Judaism, blue (tekhelet) symbolises the sky, spirituality and the divine presence. Other explanations mention the visual coolness against the heat or its role as a mosquito repellent.

Today, the blue of Chefchaouen has become an identity marker that its inhabitants are proud of. Every house, every staircase, every flower pot is painted in shades ranging from sky blue to navy blue, via turquoise and lavender blue. The medina is listed as Moroccan national heritage and attracts more than two million visitors a year.

Place Uta el-Hammam and the medina

Place Uta el-Hammam is the heart of the city, surrounded by cafes under the arcades, the 15th-century Grand Mosque with its characteristic octagonal minaret, and the 15th-century Kasbah converted into a museum. This is where locals gather at dusk to sip mint tea and watch life go by.

The Chefchaouen medina is best discovered by getting lost in its alleyways. Every turn reveals a new composition of blues, red geraniums in white pots, ornamental doors and decorated fountains. Local craftsmen are renowned for their woolens, djellabas and brightly dyed leather bags — a tradition inherited from Andalusian refugees.

Ras el-Maa and hiking in the Rif

Ten minutes' walk from the centre, the Ras el-Maa spring is an authentic living space where locals wash their laundry in the cool mountain water, as tradition dictates. A path climbs from here to the old Spanish mosque, from which one enjoys an exceptional panorama over Chefchaouen and its azure rooftops contrasting with the green of the Rif mountains.

The Talassemtane National Park, which surrounds the city, offers magnificent hikes through forests of Moroccan cedars and firs, spectacular gorges (including the famous God's Bridge) and isolated Berber villages where time seems to have stood still. These hikes, ranging from half a day to several days, are best undertaken with a licensed local guide.

Practical tips for visiting Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen is about 600 km from Marrakech. The city is generally reached by bus from Fès (4h) or Tanger (3h). Accommodation ranges from cheap traditional riads to charming guesthouses with panoramic views. Spring and autumn are the best seasons; in summer, the city is swamped with tourists but remains pleasant thanks to its altitude (600 m).

To fully enjoy the magic of Chefchaouen, it is advisable to get up at dawn: before 8am, the medina is almost deserted and the play of light on the blue walls is breathtaking. Tour Come Morocco can organise a circuit combining Chefchaouen with Fès and Meknès for a complete immersion in the imperial and blue cities of northern Morocco.