Merzouga and Erg Chebbi: Sleeping under the Stars of the Sahara

At the eastern end of Morocco, Merzouga is the gateway to Erg Chebbi, an ocean of red sand dunes reaching 150 metres in height. Riding a camel at sunset, spending the night in a Berber camp under a star-filled sky with no light pollution: this is the ultimate Saharan experience.

Erg Chebbi, an ocean of sand at the heart of the desert

Erg Chebbi is a sea of wind-formed dunes covering an area of approximately 50 km² over 22 km long and 5 to 8 km wide. Its dunes, among the highest in Morocco, can reach 150 metres. The peculiarity of this sand is its colour: depending on the time of day and the light, it ranges from pale gold to blazing orange to burgundy red at dawn.

Geologically, Erg Chebbi is a curiosity: these dunes are not part of the continuous Sahara but are enclosed in an area of hamada (rocky plateau). They are fed by prevailing winds that constantly bring sand from the Algerian Sahara. This particular geographical position makes Merzouga one of the rare places where one can see typical Saharan dunes without venturing deep into the desert.

The camel excursion: the Saharan ritual

The camel excursion at sunrise or sunset is the flagship experience of Merzouga. Caravans generally depart in the late afternoon to reach the nomadic camp at the heart of the dunes at nightfall. Riding a camel sways gently with the dunes, creating an impression of time travel back to the great era of trans-Saharan caravans.

Arriving at camp at sunset is a magical moment: the dunes turn red and gold, then the sky blazes with thousands of stars visible to the naked eye without any light pollution. The Milky Way is so bright and clear that it seems within reach of your fingertips. Nomadic guides know how to identify constellations and tell the stories of the stars as their ancestors did for millennia.

Nomadic life and Tuareg culture

The surroundings of Merzouga are inhabited by Berber and Tuareg nomadic communities that maintain certain ancestral traditions. In the camps, one can witness the preparation of mint tea in three servings ('the first tea is strong as death, the second sweet as life, the third sugary as love'), participate in gnaoua musical evenings around the fire and sleep under tents decorated with Berber rugs.

A visit to a nomad in his traditional camp allows one to understand how families still live following the grazing lands according to the seasons, with their camels, goats and donkeys. This authentic cultural immersion is one of the most memorable experiences Morocco can offer, far from the beaten paths of the mass tourism industry.

How to organise your stay at Merzouga

Merzouga is 550 km from Marrakech — about 8 hours by road. The classic circuit from Marrakech includes Ouarzazate, the Dadès and Todra gorges, then Merzouga for 2 nights, and the return via Rissani and Erfoud. This 5 to 7-day circuit is one of the most popular in Morocco and allows you to cross extraordinarily varied landscapes.

Ideally, spend two nights in Merzouga: the first in a riad or guesthouse at the edge of the dunes, and the second bivouacking in the desert. The months of October to April are the best to visit: daytime temperatures are pleasant (20-30°C) and nights are cold but bearable. In summer, temperatures can exceed 45°C, making the area almost inhospitable.