Safi is the undisputed capital of pottery in Morocco. This millennial Atlantic city, perched on ochre cliffs above the Atlantic, houses more than 350 active pottery kilns on its potters' hill and produces the most famous glazed ceramics in the kingdom.
Safi, national pottery capital: a 400-year tradition
The pottery tradition in Safi dates back at least to the 16th century. It was at this time that the region's potters developed the glazing techniques that today make Safi ceramics so renowned: the famous bowls, dishes and vases decorated with geometric patterns in cobalt blue, copper green, honey yellow and manganese brown on an ivory background. These colours, extracted from local minerals, are characteristic of the Safi school and distinct from the glazes of Fès (blue) or Meknès (polychrome).
Safi produces more than 60% of the pottery marketed in Morocco. The potters' hill workshops directly and indirectly employ several thousand people in the city. The fame of Safi pottery has transcended Morocco's borders: museums and private collectors in Europe, the United States and Japan own masterpieces of Safi ceramics from the 19th and early 20th century.
The potters' hill: 350 active kilns to visit
The potters' hill (Koll el-Barrani) is the artisanal soul of Safi. This production zone, accessible on foot from the medina in 15 minutes, is organised in workshops open to the street where visitors can observe each stage of fabrication: shaping clay on the foot-powered wheel, air drying on the terraces, firing in the large wood kilns, applying glazes and hand decoration with horsehair brushes.
The visit to the potters' hill is free. Craftsmen willingly welcome visitors into their workshops and answer questions about techniques and raw materials. Prices charged directly at the workshop are 30 to 50% lower than in the souks of Marrakech or Casablanca for pieces of identical quality. Tour Come Morocco recommends arriving early in the morning (7am-9am) when the kilns are loaded and activity is at its maximum, in an atmosphere of clay dust and burning wood smell that is unique.
The Portuguese kechla and the historic medina of Safi
The kechla (sea castle) of Safi is an imposing Portuguese fortress built in 1523 on a rocky promontory overlooking the Atlantic. Its cylindrical towers and pink sandstone walls are characteristic of 16th-century Manueline military architecture. The castle now houses a ceramics museum that traces the history of Safi pottery from its origins to contemporary creations, with masterpieces from the great master potters of the 19th and 20th centuries.
The medina of Safi, older than the kechla, preserves a 12th-century mosque (Masid el-Kawthar) built by the Almohads and restored by the Merinids. The medina quarter is more popular and less restored than those of Fès or Essaouira, giving it a particular authenticity and an unadorned daily atmosphere. The municipal square market, with its Atlantic fishmongers, spice merchants and ceramics sellers, is an immersion in the real life of the city.
The fishing port and sardine canneries of Safi
Safi is one of Morocco's leading fishing ports and the world leader in sardine fishing. The cold Atlantic waters off the Safi coast, stirred by upwelling currents, are among the most fish-rich in the world. Dozens of trawlers daily unload their cargo of sardines, anchovies, mackerel and cephalopods on the port quay, creating a lively and aromatic fish auction market that begins at dawn.
The Safi sardine canneries, heirs to an industry developed by the French at the beginning of the 20th century, export millions of cans every year to Europe, the United States and Japan. Some factories offer guided tours that allow understanding the process of transforming fresh fish into cans and the economic importance of this industry for the city. The port restaurants serve freshly grilled same-day sardines at unbeatable prices.
Circuit Marrakech–Essaouira–Safi–Oualidia
Safi fits naturally into the Moroccan Atlantic coast circuit. 170 km from Essaouira (2h drive) and 90 km north of Oualidia, it constitutes the artisanal stage par excellence of this coastal circuit that alternates beaches, historical heritage and maritime gastronomy. A 4-day circuit from Marrakech covering Essaouira (winds and medina), Safi (pottery and sardines), Oualidia (oysters and lagoon) and El Jadida (Portuguese city) is one of the richest combinations of Atlantic Morocco.
Tour Come Morocco offers this coastal circuit by private car with driver, allowing free stops at the wild beaches of the coast — such as Souiria beach, the Haouzia dunes or Cap Bedouza beach — and improvised tastings of grilled fish in roadside restaurants. The coast between Essaouira and El Jadida is one of Morocco's least touristy and most authentic, an itinerary for curious travellers.
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