Meknès: The Versailles of Morocco under Moulay Ismail

Meknès was Morocco's capital under the reign of Moulay Ismail (1672-1727), the builder sultan who sought to rival Louis XIV. Its monumental ramparts, royal granaries and the majestic Bab Mansour make it one of the most grandiose imperial cities, often overlooked by tourists but adored by those who discover it.

Moulay Ismail, the builder sultan

Moulay Ismail reigned for 55 years, longer than Louis XIV, and devoted the same passion as the Sun King to building his capital. He had dozens of kilometres of ramparts, palaces, mosques, stables for 12,000 horses and granaries capable of feeding an army for twenty years erected. His ambition was to build the most beautiful capital in the Islamic world.

To carry out these titanic projects, Moulay Ismail used considerable labour: thousands of European captives, black soldiers from his personal army (the Abids) and prisoners of war. This period is both the apex of Moroccan power and a controversial era for its slavery practices.

Bab Mansour, the most beautiful gate in the Maghreb

Bab Mansour is unanimously considered the most beautiful gate in the Maghreb. Built in 1732, two years after the death of Moulay Ismail, it is adorned with marble columns from the Roman ruins of Volubilis, multicoloured zelliges and an imposing outrepassé arch. Its name comes from the Christian architect converted to Islam, Mansour, who designed it.

Place El-Hedim ('the ruins square') in front of Bab Mansour is the living and meeting place of the Meknassis, comparable to Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakech but in a more intimate and authentic version. Storytellers, peanut sellers, musicians and jugglers animate the evenings there, in a relaxed atmosphere far from mass tourism.

Heri es-Souani and the stables of Moulay Ismail

Heri es-Souani is one of the most impressive royal granaries in the Islamic world. These vast vaulted warehouses, covering several hectares, could store enough wheat, barley and beans to feed the city for twenty years in the event of a siege. Their monumental brick vaults, partially collapsed by the 1755 Lisbon earthquake, remain a striking architectural spectacle.

The adjacent royal stables could accommodate up to 12,000 horses, each with an individual box with a marble feeding trough. An underground canal supplied fresh water to each box. This gigantic equestrian complex bears witness to the military power and splendour of Moulay Ismail's court, which European ambassadors described as surpassing Versailles.

Volubilis nearby: Morocco's Roman ruins

30 km from Meknès, the archaeological site of Volubilis is one of the best-preserved Roman cities in North Africa. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it presents exceptional in-situ mosaics, a triumphal arch dedicated to Caracalla, thermal baths, a capitol and houses with remarkable marble floors.

A visit to Volubilis is ideally combined with Meknès and nearby Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, the holy city. These three sites form a cultural triangle of exceptional richness, allowing one to move in just a few kilometres from ancient Rome to the founding Islamic Romanesque city to the Moroccan imperial capital.

Practical tips for visiting Meknès

Meknès is 60 km from Fès, accessible in 45 minutes by train. Many travellers visit it as a day trip from Fès, which is possible in a full day. However, staying one night allows you to appreciate the city at a slower pace and to visit Volubilis the next morning at opening, before the arrival of groups.

The medina of Meknès, less well-known than those of Fès or Marrakech, conceals cheaper and less touristy artisanal treasures. Meknès embroidery is renowned throughout Morocco for its fineness. The city's souk is one of the most authentic in the country — an opportunity to see how Moroccans actually do their daily shopping.